Really …you can’t celebrate Xmas or New Year’s!

Teacher friends planned a Christmas part in their apartment, which has only foreigner residents. They posted a sign in the lobby saying “Christmas Party” with the time, date and apartment number. 

Somehow the Mutawa (Religious Police) got word of it and objected. They came to the apartment building, removed the sign, and came to the apartment listed. They told the teachers they could not have the party, and that the Mutawa would be back at the date and time mentioned to ensure it.

Sound far-fetched? No, and it’s not only Christmas that is un-Islamic, and thus banned. According to an article on the bikyamasr website, a foreigner was just arrested on the street for celebrating the New Year’s Eve with balloons. 

Saudi Arabia arrests foreigner for celebrating New Year’s with balloons

So, when I was in line in the grocery store the day after Christmas, and a nice guy in full Saudi dress first helped me unload my cart, then wished me, “Merry Christmas!” …I said, “Thank you” but wondered

…is this a trick question?

Non-Alcoholic World

Non-Alcoholic World

It’s a bit of a shock to walk into the classroom and see what looks like an opened can or bottle of beer on a student’s desk. Of course, it’s non-alcoholic. No alcohol is allowed to be sold, bought or consumed in the Kingdom.

But actually, it’s a bit of a shock to see that what the US has brought to the Kingdom is Budweiser! I’m not a beer or a non-beer connoisseur, but I’m just saying…

What are you doing for Christmas?

Working! In Saudi, Christmas is a Sunday and it’s a Christian holiday.

Our working week starts Saturday at 7 am. We work daily Sat, Sun, Mon, Tue, Wed from 7 am until 315 pm. So, our ‘weekend’ is Thursday and Friday.

And since there is one religion and that is Islam, no Christmas holiday is observed.

Ah, this reminds me of my Korean friends that missed Chuseok when they visited the US. And how must it feel to be in the US, and be Muslim, Chinese or a host of others who might feel disrespected because in our way, we dismiss their holidays and celebrate ours.

Saudi holidays

Movies and Music Aren’t Allowed in Class…but sometimes they slip in

Movies and Music aren’t allowed in class, but sometimes they sneak in…

My classed was uncharacteristically poised and attentive today when I started the audio. Or tried to. It was their Dictation Quiz and we were in exam conditions: phones off, bags stored at the front of the room, nothing on their desks other than a pencil or pen. We were doing the sound check before the actual test started.

I clicked the audio and nothing happened. Tried again and went for plan B. I saw that Media Player was installed, so I decided to try to open the audio file with that. The sound was fine. Unfortunately, Media Player opens with advertisements.

The first ad was for the new Tom Cruise movie, Mission Impossible. Movie theaters are not allowed in Saudi Arabia. And any talk of movies is not allowed in our classes.

I quickly clicked to get rid of it. That ad was replaced by one of Shakira. Nice! Dancing and music are two more topics that are not allowed in our classroom. In Saudi Arabia, dancing and non-Islamic music are not allowed in public.

Well, I was quite embarrassed. Luckily I’ve been with my class daily for over a month now, so we know each other fairly well. I gasped a few times, and we all had a good laugh as they reassured me, “Teacher, it’s okay. It’s okay Teacher,” as if to say, we know it was an accident.

We can’t talk about these ideas in class, but somehow my students already knew who Shakira is, as well as Tom Cruise. Hmm…

2011 Saudi Public Executions: Increases at Alarming Rate

In Saudi Arabia, public beheadings are routinely carried out. And as 2011 comes to a close, Saudi Arabia has executed 71 people (up from 27 in 2010). Anyone can view a beheading and Westerners that venture there are often made to sit in the first row, for further humiliation for the accused.

According to Wikipedia, the death penalty can be imposed for a wide range of offences, including murder, rape, armed robbery, repeated drug use, homosexuality, prostitution, aspostasy, adultery, and sorcery.

The 345 executions carried out from 2007 to 2010 were all public beheadings. Crucifixion (public display of the beheaded body) is sometimes ordered, for a period such as three days.

In 2011, two people were executed for ‘sorcery’. Though the crime itself is not defined in Saudi law, it is punishable by death. This includes a Saudi woman beheaded in December 2011 on the ill-defined crime of witchcraft.

The death penalty is not only meted out to Saudi citizens. Amnesty International reports:

Five of those executed this year are foreign nationals, Amnesty said, including one Sudanese national for sorcery. In 2010 at least 27 were executed including six foreign nationals, down from 2009 when 69 including 19 foreign nationals were executed.

 

Some 102 people including almost 40 foreign nationals were executed in 2008 while in 2007 at least 158 people, including 76 foreign nationals were executed, Amnesty said.

Reuters: Saudi Arabia Must Stop Use of Death Penalty, Amesty International (June 10, 2011)

Telegraph: Saudi Arabia execution of sorcery woman condemned (Dec 13, 2011)

Smattering of this week …more later

As we approach the end of the university semester, we are busy with projects, marking, updating scores and preparing our students for finals. So, I don’t have time to write much, but here’s a smattering of happenings and insights this week.

- In the bookstore, there are no videos for adults other than a Pilates DVD/Book, the Quran, and kids movies (including Disney animation, Pixar, and Spongebob). There are however tons of computer games. So, while watching movies is not allowed in public, on our cable station we can watch American movies, Egyptian, and many others. It’s hard to figure out the rules here of what’s allowed and what’s not.

- Last Friday night, we watched the worldwide debut of ‘Arab Idol’. They have their versions of Simon and the other judges. In other Arab countries, they don’t have the same bans on music in public spaces, so you’d expect singers from those countries to compete. But it looked like some traditionally dressed Saudi competitors were in the pack too. Were they singing religious music? Couldn’t tell. I’m not familiar enough with Arabic music to even know what is good singing. If you know what classical Indian music is, this is similar in ways. That warbling sound could indicate tremendous skill and great music, or not. We wondered if this was a big thing, after the Arab Spring. Unfortunately, we’re not allowed to talk about non-Islamic music with our students.

- Students are turning in final projects. One came by for clarification. I guess she liked my answer because she hugged me and kissed me on the head. “Oh teacher,” she said, “I love you.”

Later that day, when I gave scores for presentations, other students swarmed me, with less love, “Teacher, Why-y-y-y-y? I want full marks!” (repeat x20)  I never tried that in university. Did you?

Another student had turned in an earlier draft of a Happy New Year brochure, telling all about the celebration. They still use the Hijri calendar, so it’s the year 1433 here, as well as 2011. They don’t celebrate Jan 1 as New Year’s so it was a bit bold to begin with, as Jan 1 is considered a Christian calendar celebration. But it was gonna slide by. Then the next draft appeared and had a page in the brochure about Christmas and clipart of Santa and angels. Omigosh, no! This is strictly forbidden (haraam). I had to tell the student to redo her project, with no reference to Christmas or Christianity, otherwise it could not be accepted.

- Walking home from school, at the door, all of us are putting on our abayas. I walk past the mosque and it’s prayer time, so men and boys in traditional Saudi garb are walking to the mosque. The sound of the Imam floats in the air. I feel in the rhythm of the place. Then I turn the corner, and there’s a boy wearing flip flops and a soccer jersey, skipping down the street kicking a ball. Suddenly I feel silly walking around in this black cloak.

- My first trip into a compound was strange. A coworker has a friend who drove us (male, of course). We had to weave our way through a dozen barricades to get to the first gate. There, they check your passport and you walk to the other side and a driver comes. The driver took us to the next gate where they take your passport, then drive you directly to where you’re going. She went for a massage. I stayed in the car and went back out.

So if a woman wants a haircut, she can go to the women’s floor in Kingdom Tower, to a salon in a compound, or have someone come to her house. Or, like me, I cut my own hair. Just a trim really, but I have to admit, it’s the first time I’ve ever cut my hair. It seemed like the easiest way to handle it. When the haircutter my friend uses comes back from the states, I’ll make an appointment and try that.

- It doesn’t look like Christmas at all here, because Christmas decorations in public are forbidden. I did see a Christmas tree in the community room window of the compound and my reaction was, Woooo (scary, brave!) A few teachers and I had a Christmas crafty get together. But we can’t display our creations at work, and probably not a good idea to even discuss it in the teacher’s room.

- Out running errands on Thursday (our “Saturday”) we wanted to get a coffee or bite. The only refuge was Starbucks. We went around to the women’s entrance (look for frosted glass), and as we reached for the door, we heard it being locked from inside. We knocked and they opened it.

“Oh, yes,” the staffperson (Italian maybe?) said (basically), “You can come in but you’ll have to leave before prayer time in 10 minutes because the Mutawa (religious police) are out today.”

If the police take offense to allowing customers to remain in during business hours, the staff would be in trouble …though I’m not sure exactly what that means.

As we sat and drank our coffee (quickly), my friend said, “Hey, I found nice ice cream over there. Better than Baskin-Robbins!”

“Oh really? Cool. And you could sit down there?”

“Oh no. They served me, but there was no women’s seating.” Ah yes, again.

The weather has been amazingly lovely. We wear a t-shirt and sweater at work,  Covered by an abaya when we’re out walking, is comfortable. High 60-70F and sunny. Perfect.

And it’s lovely to hear the sound of prayer calls drifting through and punctuating the days. It’s an odd combination, because you feel included in the prayer in that you always hear it. Excluded though because women can not go inside a mosque. And along those lines, non-muslims can not visit Mecca.

Still when I heard the sound of prayer calls coming thru the window tonight, I found that I did prefer it to the cheesy Christmas music we had playing on the i-Tunes 24/7 Christmas station on my laptop.

What do these people have in common?

What do these people have in common?

This week my students were talking about hopes and dreams, using “I’ve always wanted to…”. So, they discussed in pairs, then I called on them one by one to ask what their partner told them. 

I was surprised at the diversity of answers:

  • King Abdullah bin Abdul Aziz Al-Saud, king of Saudi Arabia (got several votes)
  • Oprah (I expected this one!)
  • Enrique Iglesias (sexy Latin singer)
  • Super Junior (Korean boy band)

These are the same girls that let me know it was inappropriate when the music from our book’s accompanying software opens up (an 8-second interlude.)

With two musical groups on the list, while the ban on music in public is strict, the decision to follow some Imam’s guidance to not play music or movies, is between you and Allah.

(Noticeably missing, but not surprisingly, from the list was Obama. In Korea, Obama was on any list of admired famous people!)

First Class

Even though I had a cultural sensitivity training, I managed to commit a few faux pas during my first class.

On the break between classes from 1:20 and 1:35 pm, I was trying to get my room set up. As I was at the computer, a few of my students donned their abayas and began doing their prayers. A bit strange to stand at the computer and just behind you, your students are bowing and praying. They didn’t seem to mind me being there.

One was finishing her prayers, and the others were putting their abayas back in their bags, when I started the software program that accompanies the student books. Even though the books were designed for the Middle East, there are still several things that are objectionable for Saudis.

And I found one today.

As the program starts, it plays a short musical interlude of about 10 seconds. No problem, right? Wrong.

All kinds of music, with the exception of folk music and in very specific occasions, are banned in Saudi Arabia. Conservatives argue that music and singing are forbidden in Islam and that this not only applies to public performances, but even inside homes.

- Fatwa fight rages between Saudi clerics (01 July 2010), Al Arabiya News

The new teacher playing music, especially while at least one girl was praying, caused the students to gasp! “Oh no! Teacher! Oh no!” Then they covered their mouths and giggled and whispered, giggling more to each other. “Oh teacher, it’s okay. Don’t worry!”

Other teachers say that stuff like this happens all the time and you just have to apologize and let them know you meant no offense.

Well, that was bad enough, but I had time for another one.

Here in Saudi Arabia, dogs are considered unclean. As are pigs, and pork is not allowed in the country.

So, when I was explaining “What is slang?”, I said you can say in proper English, “Hello. How are you today?”

But in slang, you might say, “‘sup dawg!”

It was enough work explaining that ‘sup’ means ‘What’s up?’, so I quickly skipped past the ‘dawg’ part. oopsie daisy. I don’t think calling someone a dog would be okay here. Slang or not.

Moving right along…